Trad Climbing

Traditional climbing is a broad category of rock climbing whose definition only came into being as a result of sport climbing. A reductionist definition could be: Roped non Sport Climbing. To look at it that way, all rock climbing whose protection is not exclusively pre-placed, fixed gear is ‘Trad Climbing’. That would include all forms of craging, from short top ropes to big wall aid climbs.

What is so attractive about trad climbing?
Trad climbing offers a huge variety of climbing styles to enjoy, sometimes all in one pitch. The climber who has climbed at places like The Gunks in New York or Eldorado Canyon, Colorado can testify to the many varied pitches to climb. Often times a layback corner moves out onto thin face climbing capped by a foot dangling roof below an airy hanging belay with a dizzying view. All of it comes with the adventure of finding the path up the route while placing gear where the rock offers the opportunity and is spiced with waning strength and a potential leader fall. Trad climbing IS adventure climbing and can provide excitement that is accessible to climbers at every level of ability.

Trad Gear:

Climbing shoes:
Trad climbing often involves long multi-pitch routes with crack climbing techniques required. For this you will want a comfortable shoe with a toe suitable for crack jamming. Make sure the shoes fit well since you will often have to wear them for long periods of time. All leather shoes last longer than those with a mixed fabric upper and they breathe well. Be careful of dark colors. Dark climbing shoes can feel like ovens on long routes, especially ones with hanging belays where there is no way to hide from the sun.

Harness:
A good all around harness will have padded leg loops and waist belt to provide comfort in hanging belays, or if you take a fall. Some multi-purpose harnesses have leg loops which will allow you to detach your legs while remaining attached to the rope (think: nature’s call). Most climbing harnesses have gear loops for carrying your climbing hardware such as carabiners, chalk bag, quickdraws etc. Multi-purpose harnesses will usually have a belay loop that allows you to attach a belay/rappel device or to clip easily into anchors.

Belay device:
A good belay device that the belayer is comfortable with using is more important than can be imagined. Having to belay with someone else’s belay device can be unnerving for both the belayer and climber. Try out as many belay devices as you can at a climbing gym if possible, then purchase what you can easily move the rope through and still catch a screaming leader fall with ease. Be sure to have a pear shaped locking carabiner for smooth belaying.

Remember that a good belayer will usually have partners lining up at their doors. Equip yourself with the tools to be that kind of partner.

Rope:
What diameter to go for is a matter of choice dependant on what other uses you might have for your rope. For most trad climbing 10.5mm is ideal being highly abrasion resistant, easy to handle and to stop falls with. Longer rope life comes with an 11mm rope as do more weight and rope drag. Most crags are compatible with a 50meter length, but the trend toward making fast ascents is making 60 meter ropes fairly standard and rappelling off climbs is always easier with longer ropes.

Rack:
Suggested general purpose trad rack:
• 1-2 Sets of Stoppers including micro sizes
• 1 Set of Hexes
• 1-2 Sets of Camming Devices
• 6 - 10, 60 cm Nylon Slings
• 20 or more Carabiners
• 5 - 10 Quickdraws
• 20 Feet of Tubular Webbing
• Padded Gear Sling
• Nut Tool

In order to prevent intermingling your rack with other partners gear, we recommend that you mark your gear.  Electrical tape (some people color code sizes or types of gear) or some other non damaging, distinctive permanent mark is best.