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Sport Climbing

Clip 'n Go is the way to go.

Sport climbing is a style of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock, especially bolts, for protection. It contrasts with traditional climbing, in which the rock is typically devoid of fixed anchors where climbers must place removable protection as they climb. Since the need to place protection is virtually eliminated, sport climbing places an emphasis on gymnastic ability, strength and endurance. The most extreme roped climbing moves ever completed have been on sport climbs.

The equipment requirements for pure sport routes are generally simple; sensitive climbing shoes, chalk bag, harness, rope, a belay device, locking carabiner and quickdraws. Rope bags and helmets are not uncommon among sport climbers.

Many sport routes, due to bouldery starts, have high first bolts and demand the use of a pre clipping device known as a “stick clip”. A stick clip is a simple device made from a fallen tree limb with a quickdraw taped to the end. A rope end is already run through to the lead climbers harness. More complex clipping devices are fashioned from telescoping golf ball retrievers and a host of gadgets that inventive climbers have devised. The stick clip provides a top rope through the first bolt when the landings are too serious or letting go to clip is nearly impossible.

Sport climbing continues to gain popularity for a variety of reasons. Often sport climbing crags are more accessible than those with longer routes. They typically generate a positive social atmosphere where charged up climbers encourage one another to ‘send’ their routes. Short approach walks, quick descents to a comfortable place in the sun or shade is almost a tailor made experience. In many ways sport climbing is almost all climbing fun with almost no climbing grief.

Gear considerations:

Rope
A 60m rope is not essential at most sport crags, but does make life a lot easier at places where the pitches are long and a single rope is used to rappel or lower to the ground. What diameter to go for is a matter of choice dependant on what other uses you might have for the rope. If purely for sport climbing then a 10.5mm is a good choice for durability, ease of handling and fall stopping. For more extreme routes where weight and rope drag are likely to interfere with performance, a 10mm (or even slimmer) rope is a smart choice. Think of a lean cord as a compromise between weight, wear and tear, and safety that should be considered.

Quickdraws
Fifteen should do for most sport climbs. In order to cut down on rope drag it is worth having an assortment of lengths to choose from. It's important to always clip the bolt with the straight gate and the rope into the bent gate. Bolts can create nicks in carabiners which can later damage the rope if the quickdraw is used the wrong way round.

Sport climbing shoes
A serious sport climber will want a lighter weight and more sensitive shoe than one intended for multi pitch climbs. These shoes are often down-cambered have an asymmetrical shape (looking at the sole may remind you of the shape of a banana). Sport shoes have little support below your feet to maximize sensitivity. Optimal performance comes if they fit snugger than other types of shoes so your feet won’t shift around inside.
Sport Climbing gear

Remember that sport climbing shoes will be on and off your feet so they will not need to be as lose as an all day multi pitch shoe. Just don’t go too far and push into the realm of pain in order to increase performance. It simply isn’t needed due to the way that climbing shoes are designed today.

Belay device
A good belay device that the belayer is comfortable with using is more important than can be imagined. Having to belay with someone else’s belay device can be unnerving for both the belayer and climber. Try out as many belay devices as you can at a climbing gym if possible. Then purchase what you can easily move the rope through and still catch a screaming leader fall with ease. Be sure to have a pear shaped locking carabiner for smooth belaying.

It is recommended, in addition to a standard belay device, that frequent sport climbers get a Petzl Grigri. A Grigri, with its ability to auto lock onto a weighted rope, will save huge amounts of belayer energy when there is a lot of top roping and route working going on. A lead climber who does a lot of hanging to wire moves will wear out a belayer who has to grip on to the rope for an eternity. Some things are worth the extra cost. A Grigri is one of them.

Remember that a good belayer will usually have partners lining up at their doors. Equip yourself with the tools to be that kind of partner.

Harness
Generally a sport climber’s harness is light weight but with adequately padded waist belt and leg loops so that hanging while working moves is comfortable. You will want gear loops on each side to carry quickdraws. See our article on choosing a climbing harness for more complete information.

Climbing Clothes
Sport climbing is much more demanding of flexibility and unique movements than at most trad cliffs. Climbing specific clothes will provide you with the qualities that are needed for maximum performance and are built to last with a sharp look that suits the sport.