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As of 2010 Ben Moon is still climbing although he now concentrates on bouldering. Jerry Moffatt (born 1963) is also a rock climber from England who, during the 1980s and 1990s, was regarded as one of the greatest in the world, and remains a legendary figure in the climbing world. He burst into the spotlight in the early 1980s with important ascents, notably the first repeat of Ron Fawcett's Strawberries (E6 6b) at Tremadog, and very quick repeats of some of the world's hardest routes. Easily climbing Genesis in Eldorado Canyon, Boulder, CO and Equinox, Joshua Tree, CA in the USA, Super Imjin in Japan, Bidule in France and The Face in Altmühl Valley Nature Park in Germany shookup local communities. Jerry made his own important first ascents including Helmut Schmitt (E6) at Stoney Middelton, Masters Wall (E7 6b) on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, Revelations (8a+) and Evolution (8c) at Raven Tor, Liquid Ambar (8c+) at Lower Pen Trwyn, and Ulysses (E6 6b) and The Ace (Font 8b) at Stanage. After around thirty years in the sport, Jerry continues to climb and boulder as of 2010. His autobiography, Jerry Moffatt Revelations, was published in 2009 by Vertebrate Publishing. The bulk of the book documents sport climbing’s progression of dogging, yo-yoing, red-pointing, flashing, on-sighting etc. and links these to shifting ethics, an increase of training programs, development of strength and power, mental preparation, use of indoor climbing facilities, involvement in international competitions and even going “on the dole” to provide time for total dedication. These aspects reveal a major validity of `Revelations' and lift it above most mundane climbing books. It uses Jerry Moffatt's obsessions, motivation and self-discipline to demonstrate his evolution in climbing, but in a light-hearted manner without losing sight of his fun-loving approach to life. It also refers to dark moments within his family or amongst friends, and his despair due to injuries, apprehension at stalling in competitions etc. with indications of how Jerry dealt with such matters. Intertwined are insights into the principled nature of Jerry's business dealings, networking, sponsorship, self-promotion etc. Perhaps the most fascinating part of the book is the last chapter or two where we see Moffatt coming to terms with waning powers. Married with two children and pursuing a number of business ventures, Moffatt now finds it impossible to put in the hours of training required to remain climbing fit. When you've been as good as he has, it's tough to be second rate. |
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